Elevated Dog Feeding Stand v. 2

A few years back I repurposed an old tray table into an elevated feeding stand for Tom.  It well served its purpose, but recently it came to my attention it needed replacing.  Can’t have splinters after all!  This weekend included building Tom a spiffy new feeding stand from scrap lumber.

Tom eats out of an elevated feeder for a couple of reasons.  1. He seems to prefer it.  2. I prefer that it keeps his metal dish contained so I don’t have to hear the dish scraping across the floor as he licks every last molecule out of it.  and 3.  If Tom eats high, the short legged dog has no chance of randomly getting his food.

To make this feeder, you’ll need:

• tape measure
• drill
• pencil
• jig saw
• a 1″ thick board cut 10″ x 19″
• 4 2×3″s cut to preferred height.  Tom’s feeder is overall 18″ tall, so 2x3s cut to 17″
• 2 1×3″ cut 19″
• 2 1×2″ cut to 19″ (or 2 more 1×3″ cut to 19″)
• 2 1×3″ cut 7.5″
• felt for feet bottoms
• wood glue
• wood screws 2″ long
• Sander

Step 1:

• Draw a line that divides the 10×19″ board in half
• From corner to corner diagonally on each of those halves, drawn a line forming an X.  The center of this X, where the lines intercept is the the center of half of the board.
• Measure the diameter of your dog dish.  Be sure to measure accounting for the lip.  Standard metal dog dishes are often 7.5″ in diameter.  Divide this number in half to get the radius of your dog dish circle.
• From this center, measure out 3.25″ radially (or the radius of your dog dish) until you have drawn a circle that is diameter 7.5″ (or diameter of your dog dish).

Step 2:

• If you want a feeder with 2 dish holes, cut out with your jig saw both of the circles you just drew.  If you want 1 dish hole, just cut out with your jig saw one of these circles.  Tom’s feeder is a 1 dish hole feeder.
• Even if you are making a 1 dish feeder, the reason to make it long enough to fit 2 dishes is for stability.  I’ve found making the feeder to length to fit just 1 dish makes it more likely to topple over while the dog is eating out of it.

Step 3:

• Line 2 of your 2x3s up parallel, 19″ apart
• Measure and mark a line 4″ from the bottom of each board
• Place 1 of your 1x3x19″ perpendicular along those 4″ lines creating an H shape
• Drill holes in the 1×3, place wood glue on the area where the 2 boards intersect and then screw the boards together.
• Repeat this for the 2nd set of 2 2×3″

Step 4:

• Take one of your new H forms you created in step 3.  Lie it flat on the ground
• Place 1 1x2x19″ or 1 1x3x19″ flush against the upper edge of the 2 2x3s, so that lying flat you now have 2 parallel 2x3s and 2 parallel cross boards.  This creates 1 of your leg sets.
• Repeat for other leg set.

Step 5:

• Connecting the 2 leg sets
• Position your 2 leg sets 7.5″ parallel to each other with the narrow side of the 2x3s on the floor.  So the 19″ lengths will be extending up in the air towards the ceiling.
• Measure from the top edge of the on the ground 2x3s 4.5″.
• Place one of the 1x3x7.5″ boards crosswise along this 4.5″ line.  Drill placement holes, glue and screw into the narrow side of the 2×3.
• Do the same for the parallel 2×3″ creating connection between the 2 leg sets or 3/4 of a box now.
• Flip the base over, and repeat for the other side connecting the leg sets so you now have a rectangular base with 4 sides that is at the height you want your feeder

Step 6:

• With the feeder base upright on the floor, fit the 10×19″ board on top creating a lid.
• Test that your dog dish fits in flush.
• Once 10×19″ board is in position and sides are flush, drill placement holes, glue and screw the top with the feeder hole onto the base.

Step 7:

• Let the glue dry over night

Step 8:

• Sand the feeder smooth
• Glue felt onto the base of the feet to avoid scraping your floors

Step 9:

• Have your dog test it out!